Feeding for the Job: Why Layers and Broilers Can’t Share a Dinner Plate
Anyone who has spent time raising chickens knows that not all chickens are created equal. A common mistake, especially for those new to farming, is to think that ‘feed is feed.’ But trying to raise a healthy meat bird on chicken layer feed is like asking a weightlifter to train on a marathon runner’s diet — it just doesn’t work.
Understanding the unique nutritional needs of your layers versus your chicken broilers is one of the most fundamental parts of running a successful poultry operation. Let’s break down what each chicken really needs to thrive at its specific job.
Fueling the Egg Factory: What Your Layers Need
A laying hen has one primary mission: to produce strong, high-quality eggs consistently. Her body is an amazing little factory, and to keep it running smoothly, she needs a very specific kind of fuel.
The most critical ingredient is calcium. Think of it as the brick and mortar for eggshells. Without enough calcium, you start seeing those dreaded thin, brittle shells that crack the moment you touch them. That’s why a good layer feed will have a high calcium content, usually from sources like crushed oyster shells or limestone.
Protein is important, but it’s a balancing act. Layers don’t need the massive protein levels of a meat bird; around 16-18% is typically the sweet spot. We also watch the fat content. You want a lean, productive bird, and hen can often struggle with laying who has a higher weight. It’s all about providing just what she needs for the daily task of egg production, and no more.

Built for Bulk: The High-Speed Diet of a Broiler
Broilers are on a completely different journey. Their job is to build quality muscle, and they do it on a very tight schedule. Their diet has to be perfectly engineered to support that explosive growth.
This is where high-protein feed becomes non-negotiable. With a broiler, you’re looking for a chicken feed that’s around 20-22% protein. This is the fuel for their metabolic engine. They also need a diet that is dense with energy, which is why broiler feeds are often packed with more corn and other high-energy grains. To help build that muscle, crucial amino acids like lysine and methionine are also added to the mix—they are the essential building blocks.
Furthermore, smart farmers know that a broiler’s needs change as it grows. You wouldn’t feed a two-week-old chick the same as a six-week-old bird ready for processing. We use a phased feeding approach, starting them on a high-protein “starter” feed and moving to a high-energy “finisher” feed. It’s a smarter way to raise them that matches their natural growth curve perfectly.
At the end of the day, tailoring the feed to the chicken isn’t just a fancy science — it’s the core of good animal husbandry. When you give each chicken the right nutrition for its job, you get stronger eggs, healthier meat, and a more efficient and profitable farm.
How to Make Pellet Feed for Chicken
If you’ve ever watched your flock scratch through their mash, flinging half of it onto the ground in search of the good bits, you know the frustration of wasted feed. It’s not just messy; it’s money scattered in the dirt. This is where making your own feed pellets can be a total game-changer.
While it takes some investment in equipment, like a good chicken feed pellet machine, the control you gain over your costs and your flock’s nutrition is powerful. It’s a rewarding process, but there are a few hard-won lessons that make the difference between perfect pellets and a frustrating mess.
Getting the Foundation Right: The Grind and Mix
You can’t make good pellets from chunky ingredients. The first step is to get everything ground down to a consistent fine powder, even texture, almost like a coarse flour. When you run your hands through the mixture, you shouldn’t feel any large, whole grains. This fine grind will allow the chicken feed pellet mill to press everything together tightly. Once it’s ground, a thorough mix is crucial to make sure every single pellet has the same balanced nutrition. Don’t skip this—it’s the foundation for a quality feed.

The Secret Ingredient: Getting the Moisture Just Right
This second step is probably the most important trick I have learned, and it is where most beginners may go wrong. The moisture content of your mixture is everything. You’re aiming for around 12-15%, but what does that actually feel like?
Here’s the test: grab a handful of your chicken feed mix and squeeze it tightly in your fist. It should clump together without dripping any water. When you open your hand, that clump should break apart easily with a little pressure. If it’s dusty and won’t hold a shape, it’s too dry. If it feels like mud, it’s too wet. Getting the moisture right is the secret to making dense, durable pellets.
Running the Mill Like a Pro
Once your mixture feels right, it’s time to turn the mixture into pellets. A word of advice: don’t just dump the chicken feed in and hope for the best. Start by feeding the mixture into the machine slowly and steadily. Listen to the sound of the motor; it’ll tell you if it’s working too hard. A steady hand prevents jams and ensures your pellets are uniform.
And you must pay attention to safety. These machines are powerful. Keep your hands clear and never wear loose clothing that could get caught.
The Final Touches: Cooling and Storing
Your chicken feed pellets will come out of the mill hot and slightly soft. You might be tempted to bag them up right away, but don’t do it. Hot pellets trap steam, and that moisture is a perfect recipe for mold, which can ruin your entire batch.
The best thing to do is spread them out in a thin layer on a clean, dry surface, like a tarp. Let them air-cool completely for several hours until they are hard and cool to the touch. Once they’re fully cooled and dry, store them in airtight containers away from sunlight and moisture. An old trick is to toss a bay leaf into each container—it’s a great natural repellent for pantry pests.
There’s a real satisfaction in watching your flock thrive on feed you made with your own two hands. It’s more work, yes, but the control it gives you is priceless.

How to Make Mash Feed for Chicken
In a world of high-tech pellet mills and complex chicken feed formulas, it’s easy to overlook the humble mash. But let’s be clear: not everyone needs to make pellets. Sometimes, the simplest method is the smartest one, especially if you’re just starting to make your own feed or raising very young chicks.
Mash is the original DIY chicken feed, and it’s a fantastic way to take control of your flock’s nutrition without a heavy investment in mash feed plant. Yes, there’s a bit more waste compared to pellets — we can’t deny that chickens love to pick and scratch. But the trade-off is a process so straightforward you can get started today with equipment you likely already have.
It’s All About the Mix
Since mash isn’t held together by pressure and heat, the real craft lies in the quality of your grind and the thoroughness of your mix. The goal is to create a balanced meal in every single peck.
First, you need to grind all your ingredients like corn, oats, soymeal, and all into a consistent, fine powder. A good feed grinder can do the job. The finer the texture, the easier it is for your birds, especially young ones, to digest.
Once all raw materails are ground, you can start to mix the powder. you can use a powerful feed mixer machine to do this job. It can save you labor and time. The machine can mix the nutrition and proteins evenly.

A Pro Tip for Adding Nutrients
When you’re adding powdered supplements like vitamins or minerals in chicken feed, don’t just dump them into the main pile. It’s nearly impossible to mix them in evenly that way. Instead, here’s a pro tip: create a “premix.” Take a small amount of your main feed—say, a pound or two—and mix your powdered supplements thoroughly into just that small batch. Then, add this super-concentrated premix back into the full batch and blend it all together. This is the best way to avoid “hot spots” and guarantee every bird gets what it needs.
Keeping it Fresh: The Rules of Storage
Mash is like a sponge for moisture, and a damp batch will turn into a moldy, caked mess faster than you can say ‘sick chicken.’ Storing it properly is non-negotiable.
Always use solid, airtight containers with secure lids. A simple but crucial trick is to never store your chicken feed bags or containers directly on a concrete floor, which can “sweat” and introduce moisture from the bottom. I keep all my feed on old wooden pallets to allow air to circulate underneath. It’s a simple step that has saved me countless bags of feed over the years.
Making your own mash chicken feed puts you in the driver’s seat of your flock’s health. It’s a foundational skill for any farmer looking for more control and a deeper connection to what their animals eat.
Step-by-Step Recipes: Tailoring Your Chicken Feed
Chicken Layer Feed Recipe
Ingredient | Amount (lbs) |
Corn | 50 |
Soybean Meal | 25 |
Oats | 10 |
Alfalfa Meal | 5 |
Fish Meal | 5 |
Calcium Carbonate (Oyster Shell) | 4 |
Salt | 1 |
Chicken Broiler Feed Recipe
Ingredient | Amount (lbs) |
Corn | 60 |
Soybean Meal | 30 |
Fish Meal | 5 |
Bone Meal | 3 |
Salt | 1 |
Vitamin and Mineral Premix | 1 |